念青唐古拉山是西藏著名四大神山之一。念青，就是藏语“大神”；“念青唐古拉”，藏语的意思就是“灵应草原之神”。从这个名字当中我们可以看出藏民对它的崇敬。

念青唐古拉山主峰海拔7162米，常年覆盖着白雪，云雾缭绕①。主峰西北面的山脚下，就是世界上海拔最高的湖——纳木错。它是著名的佛教圣地，西藏三大“圣湖”之一。每到藏历羊年，藏传佛教有朝拜纳木错的传统，据说，从藏历羊年（最近一个藏历羊年是公元2003年）正月开始，藏民们就从各藏区赶往纳木错，到了藏历四月十五(大约在公历6月中旬)，来到纳木错朝拜“圣湖”的人会高达好几万。信徒们不停地转经②，在湖边和山崖上挂上五色的经幡③，成群结队地到湖边用圣水清洗身体和衣物。虽然这次旅行我没有赶上大规模朝拜，但是纳木错边留下的经幡，却让我感受到了当时的盛况。

在西藏古老的神话传说里，念青唐古拉山和纳木错不仅是著名的神山和圣湖，而且是一对生死相依的夫妻。念青唐古拉山因为有纳木错的衬托而显得更加英俊挺拔，纳木错因为倒映着念青唐古拉山而显得更加美丽动人。

翻越了海拔5231米的唐古拉山口后，火车开始进入西藏地区，我真正感受到了“世界屋脊”的美。远看是白茫茫的冰雪世界，近看是雪线下的天然草原。特别值得一提的是，海拔5067.88米的唐古拉车站是世界上海拔最高的铁路车站。但是我没有在这里下车，而是在列车里一边享受供氧，一边欣赏风光。

 

Nyenchen Tanglha is one of the four well-known holy mountains in Tibet. In the Tibetan language Nyenchen means “big god” and Tanglha means “mountain on the highland”. From its name we can see the kind of reverence the Tibetans hold for this mountain.

The highest peak of Nyenchen Tanglha range is 7,162m in altitude. Enveloped in fleecy clouds and mist, it is snow-capped all year round. At the northwest foot of the peak lies Namco Lake—the highest lake in the world. The lake is a well-known sacred place of Buddhism as well as one of the three major sacred lakes in Tibet. Tibetan Buddhism has a tradition of worshiping Namco Lake in every year of the sheep. Starting from the first month in the year of the sheep in the Tibetan calendar (the last year of the sheep in the Tibetan calendar was 2003), Tibetans in different parts of Tibet will set out for Namco Lake. By the 15th day of the fourth Month (roughly mid June in the Christian calendar), the number of pilgrims arriving at Namco Lake to worship the lake will reach tens of thousands. The pilgrims spin prayer wheels, hang colourful prayer flags and banners on lakesides and mountain cliffs, bathe and wash clothes in the holy water in large groups. Although our trip does not coincide with this event, from the prayer flags and banners still hanging around the lakeside, we can picture the grandeur of this massive religious activity.

In ancient Tibetan myths Nyenchen Tanglha and Namco are not only a holy mountain and a sacred lake but also a married couple sworn to live and die together. Nyenchen Tanglha, set off by Namco Lake, looks magnificently tall and handsome while Lake Namco, reflecting Nyenchen Tanglha, appears even more beautiful and touching.

After climbing over the 5231-meter-high Tanggula Pass (or Tang Pass), the train enters Tibet. We can now fully appreciate the beauty of the “Roof of the World”. In the distance is the white world of ice and snow, closer by are broad stretches of grasslands extending all the way to the snowline. A point worth special mention is the fact that Tanggula station, at an altitude of 5067.88 meters above sea level, is the world’s highest railway station. I am not getting off the train though, instead, I choose to remain onboard, enjoying the oxygen inside the carriage and the spectacular scenery outside.

 

①缭绕 liáorào: envelop

②转经 zhuànjīng: spin prayer wheels

③经幡 jīngfān: prayer flag and banner