It has been said that malatang originated in an area, by the Yangtze River, in Sichuan Province. Boat men and boat trackers, more than anyone, made malatang popular.
As the section of the river, which passes through the Three Gorges, between Yibin and Wushan County, in Sichuan, has rapid currents, boat trackers are common in the area. After work, they would find a place by the river, pick some stones and prop a jar or pot against a fire before adding some river water. Then they would add vegetables, chili and Chinese prickly ash.
They ate the dish as they were adding the ingredients. As the dish tasted very good, and as it appeased one's appetite and dispelled dampness and coldness, its popularity spread rapidly along the river.
Eventually, vendors at the piers realized malatang's economic value. After making some changes, such as the variety of vegetables and the method of cooking, the vendors carried malatang to their customers. They would sell the dish on the piers and along the river. Over time, malatang's popularity spread. Today, it is eaten by countless people across the country.
