The special features of Sun Yat-sen's uniforms are in the design of collars and pockets. A turn-up collar of fitted height plus a reverse collar has the effect of the wing collar of the western style skirt. There are four out pockets in the front garment piece. The lower two ones are pressed and tucked into the style of "qin pocket," so that more staff can be held. Soft covers are designed above the pocket to prevent articles from losing. There are two big hidden pockets inside the front garment underlining, a small one (watch pocket) in front of the waist and two on the behind with soft covers. This set of men's suit designed by the founder of Republic of China, Mr. Sun Yat-sen, is more practical than western suits, and fits more to the aesthetics and life customs of Chinese people. Even though it adopted the western cut, materials and color, but showed the qualities of the symmetry, solemnity and restraint of Chinese dress. Since it came into being in 1923, file Sun Yat-sen's uniform has become the prevailing classical formal dress for Chinese men.
With the burst of the First World War, western feminist movement began to sprout. Women were no longer reconciled to be the accessories and victims of the family so quite a number of women tried to pursue a career that had been previously occupied by men. They began to wear long trousers and cut short hair. This social tide converged with Chinese "New Civilization Movement" that had spread across China. Under these social influences of seeking for science, democracy and freedom, numerous women started to walk out of the family to receive higher education. They sought for both financial independence and freedom in love and marriage.
Female students who studied overseas and students from local mission schools took the lead in wearing "civilized new dress" - upper outer jacket was mostly jackets with tight waistline, big front garment pieces, elbow-long sleeves or 70% sleeves in the shape of horn. The clothing hem was mostly in arch shape and decorated with patterns. The matching skirts originally were ankle-long black skirts, and gradually the length of skirt rose to the upper shank. This style of simple and plain dress became the most fashionable female image in 1920s and 1930s. The esteem towards the western aesthetics also influenced the remolding of the general image of Chinese women. Cosmetics and adornments from Europe and America entered into Chinese market. To whiten the skin, nourish hair, curl the eyelash, sweep dark eye shadow, cut short hair, curl hair, wear a Chanel style camellia or a very long pearl necklace around neck, carry a fur handbag, wear stockings and high heel shoes...these formed the daily images of Chinese fashionable women.
