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Shenyi: Qin-Han periods and Three Kingdoms periods(2)
Input Date:08/22/2006 Read: [Print] [Close]

     

      The so-called paofu refers to long robes with the following features. First of all, it has a lining. Depending on whether it is padded, the garment can be called jiapao or mianpao. Secondly, it most often comes with generously wide sleeves with cinched wrist. Thirdly, it has low cut cross collars to show the under garment. And fourthly, there is often an embroidered dark band at the collar, the wrists and the front hem, often in Kui (a Chinese mythical animal) or checker patterns. The paofu differ in length. Some robes can reach down to the ankles, often worn by men of letters or the elderly, while others are only long enough to cover the knees, worn mostly by warriors or heavy laborers.
      Even after paofu became the mainstream attire, shenyi did not disappear. It remained as in women's garments. First the front lapel elongated and developed into a shenyi with wrap-around lapel. As can be seen in the silk painting in the Changsha Mawangdui Tomb of Hah Dynasty, the lady in the painting is dressed in a shenyi with wrap-around lapel.
         By the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties (220-589), style of paofu evolved into loose-fitting garments with open sleeves (as opposed to cinched sleeves of the previous dynasties). These were called bao yi bo dai or loose robes with long ribbons, exemplifying the carefree style of the wearer. Men's long robes became increasingly casual and simple, while women's long robes became more elaborate and complex. Typical women's garments were well exemplified in the painting of the Gu Kaizhi (circa. 345-409), the great painter of the time. Women wore dresses with decorative cloth on the lower hems of their dresses.
       There are both similarities and differences between shenyi and paofu. They are both one-piece gowns but shenyi died out while paofu survived up until the present day. Even today in the 21st century, the mere mention of the changpao will bring up an image of a straight gown with side opening under the right arm, its simplicity in style enhanced by the elaboration of weaving and embroidery.
       The style of paofu continually evolved in each dynasty. The Hah Dynasty shenyi with wide sleeves, the Tang Dynasty round collar gown and the Ming Dynasty straight gown are all typical wide changpaos, mainly preferred by the intelligentsia and the ruling class. Time went by, and the changpao became a typical garment for those with leisure, as well as a traditional garment of the Han people. 

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