Development of Chinese Clothes
From the day garments became part of people's lives, they have been given different significance of social status, lifestyle, aesthetics and cultural concepts. Garments have always been the truest and most straightforward reflection of the social and historical scenes of ally given time. In this sense, the history of garments is at the same time a vivid history on the development of civilization.
Han, Wei, Jin Dynasty
Shenyi, or deep garment, literally means wrapping the body deep within the
clothes. This style began from the Warring States Period, and is deeply rooted
in the traditional mainstream Chinese ethics and morals that forbid the close
contact of the male and the female. The shenyi is made up of the upper and lower
garment, tailored and made in a unique way. There is a special chapter in the
Book of Rites detailing the make of the shenyi. It has to be long enough not to
expose the skin, but short enough not to drag on the floor. The forepart is
elongated into a large triangle, with the part above the waist in straight cut
and tile part below the waist bias cut, for ease of movement. The underarm
section is made for flexible movement of the elbow; therefore the generous
length of sleeves reaches the elbow when folded from the fingertips.
>>>>>Shen Yi 1
2
Another typical image of the Wei and Jin literati was on that indulgence in
drinking, merry making, and talking of metaphysics. The treacherous nature of
politics forced these scholars to seek comfort and relief in these aspects,
Facing the hypocrisy and constraint of traditional orders, they preferred a life
of truth and freedom. They sought the carefree lifestyle, tile maintenance of
good health or indulgence in earthly pleasures.
>>>>>
The Elegant Wei and Jin Period 1
2
Tang Dynasty
The most outstanding garments in this great period of prosperity were women's
dresses, complimented by elaborate hairstyles, ornaments and face makeup. The
Tang women dressed in sets of garments, each set a unique image in itself. In
general, the Tang women's dresses can be classified into three categories: the
hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road, the traditional ruqun or
double layered or padded short jacket that was typical of central China, as well
as the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian
formalities.
>>>>>
Flourish of clothing: Tang dynasty 1
2
3
The Tang women inherited this traditional style and developed it further,
opening up the collar as far as exposing the cleavage between the breasts. This
was unheard of and unimaginable in the previous dynasties, in which women had to
cover their entire body according to the Confucian classics. But the new style
was soon embraced by the open-minded aristocratic women of the Tang Dynasty.
>>>>>
Ruqun 1
2
What is worth special mention is that women of the Tang Dynasty did not have to
abide by the traditional dress code, but were allowed to expose their arms and
back when they dressed, or wear dresses absorbing elements from other cultures.
>>>>>
Splendid Styles of Tang Dynasty
Although facial makeup was not invented by the Tang women, they were quite
elaborate and extravagant. They not only powdered their faces, darkened their
eyebrows, rouged their cheeks or put on lipsticks. These women also decorated
their foreheads with a yellow crescent, which was said to be an imitation of the
northwestern ethnic minorities.
>>>>>Facial makeup
Song Dynasty
It is quite a curious phenomenon that the beizi is popular among people
of both sexes and all social strata at the same time. In Song paintings, we can
find both aristocratic women and maidservants' wearing beizi of basically the
same style.The beizi was preferred by men of the Song Dynasty as an informal
wear at home because of its unfastened front, the relaxed waistline and its
flexibility in length and width.
>>>>>
Beiz-a Song Style Garment
Ming Dynasty
Women's costume of the Ming Dynasty went even further in its gentle and
elegant beauty, which is often recognized as the epitome of classic Chinese
female garment. The Ming dynasty is a period in which the Chinese Hah culture
developed to the fullest, absorbing the cultural essence of the previous Tang
and Song Dynasties. Ever since the Ming Dynasty and up until the present day,
visual representation of ancient Chinese females or women in mythologies has
mostly adopted the Ming style.
>>>>>Ming Garment as Seen in Classical Portraits
Qing Dynasty
At the mention of Qing Dynasty (1616-1911) costumes, the first image that comes
into people's mind is men's long robes and mandarin jackets as well as women's
gowns - with loose-bodied waistline in early time and then gradually tight
waistline matched with a waistcoat outside becoming more popular. In fact, these
impressions are not sufficient enough to represent the costume image of the Qing
Dynasty, which spans nearly three hundred years in Chinese history.
>>>>>
Qi: symbol of Qing dynasty 1
2
3
4
Republic of China (1911-1949)
>>>>>
The Uniform of Guoming Party-Military Uniform
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