In Tang Dynasty the woman emperor Wuzetian had all official wear embroidered gowns, specifying that civil official gowns were embroidered with birds and military official gowns with beast. The Ming dynasty followed this tradition, distinguishing types and ranks of officials with buzi, embroidered pieces attached to the chest and back of gowns indicating the wearers' ranks.To the ruling dass of early Qing Dynasty who was intent on defining rigid court ceremonies, tile official attire was used as an important instrument to distinguish social status. The Qing rulers invented the most complicated system of official attire in Chinese history, strictly defining the color, decorative patterns and style of official uniform in books with clear illustrations, intended to be passed down to all generations to come. The court even set up supervisory office ensuring that all rules are followed in the making of official uniform, and all court attire are complete with the most refined weaving and embroidery, and complimented with complete set of ornaments.
The most distinguishing elements of the Qing official uniform are the horse-hoof shaped sleeve and the Mandarin jacket style. However, the use of buzi, or ornament patcfies, was borrowed dfrectfy from the previous Ming Dynasty. The court insignia badges clearly distinguished the civil and military officials with embroideries of birds or beasts. Emblems with different animals were used to further distinguish the ranks and authority of these officials. The emblems embroidered on the decorative patches were however different from the Ming Dynasty in that they were much more decorative, often accentuated with an elaborately embroidered border. In terms of style, the Qing buzi was embroidered on the outer iacket worn over the gown with front closure, and the front embroidery was done in two pieces
at each side. The black gauze cap of the Ming Dynasty was replaced by the Hualing or feathered cap. Tile number of "eyes" on the peacock feather was used to differentiate each rank. The official court uniform and daily uniform were both worn in different lays of robe, jacket, gown, vest, and decorative patches, complimented by court beads court belt, jade ornaments, colored silk ribbons and perfumed sachel. Officials wore court beads made of jade, agate, coral, or sandalwood, and silk ribbons of bright yellow, turquoise or azurite, all according to their ranks.Female relatives of the officials also wore elaborately decorated dresses. Inlaid brims were lavishly used in their dresses, complimented by pearls, jade ornaments and embroideries on the hemline, the chest mid the sleeve edges. Pleats were fixed with silk threads, and even the sole of socks and shoes invisible to others were covered with embroideries. This attitude was passed down by the most privileged throughout the dynasties, in which only the most leisurely could have appreciated the intricacy of these details.
Out of all details in Chinese official uniform, the buzi was the most outstanding feature to mark the relationship of garment and power. These ornament patches had birds and beasts of all kinds, both real and mythical. For civil officials, real birds such as cranes, gotden pheasants, peacocks, wild geese, silver pheasants, egrets, larks and quails were used, together with mythical birds that look like a cross between an egret and a peacock. In the buzi of military officials, there were recognizable animals such as tigers, lions and panthers, as well as beasts apparently coming out of someone's imagination. Different animals were used to signify different ranks.
