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Hats with Meanings
Input Date:09/24/2006 Read: [Print] [Close]

   In the thick forest of the Grand and Small Xing An Moutain in China, there live E'lunchun people who use animal fur to make clothes for generations. Elunchun people's clothes are almost all made of roe fur. In autumn and winter, they use roe captured in autumn and winter, which has a stronger winter-proofing capacity because of its long and thick fur hair and thick and strong skin. Roe fur worn in summer use roes captured in summer because of its thin and short fur hair.
   Roe fur clothes of E'lunchun people include roe robes, coats, trousers, boots, socks, gloves, aprons, waistcoats, and even satchels. These are all made of roe fun among these fur clothes, the most characteristic one is the roe head hat. A roe head hat is made by a piece of complete roe head fur. The traditional way is first to peel off the skin from the roe head and tile head fur was then coated with animal liver smashed into mushy paste or deadwood dregs mixed with water after being dried. Then the fur is rolled up and covered tightly for one or two days to soften and ferment tile adhesive materials like fat on the skin. The decayed stuff was then scraped off and the fur is kneaded repeatedly until the fur softens. Two black pieces of leather skin are sewed to the eye socket parts as eyes. Two ears were sliced off and replaced by two fake ears made by roe skin. In this way, a lifelike roe head hat is finished. Using fake ears for the roe head hat is to meet the needs of hunting - a roe head hat is the best camouflage for hunting. When a hunter hides in the forest with only roe head hat being exposed, wild roes often drop their guard because they consider him as their same kind. Hence it is easy for hunters to hunt for prey when they enter into their field of vision. If a roe head hat uses real ears, then other hunters will be confused, which may cause shots by accident.
   Daur people who live in the northeast of China also love to use animal fur to make fur hats. Besides roe heads, they also use fox and wolf fur to make hats. Ewenke people who have been living in rich forest, grassland and valley south of the Erguna River m northeast China for generations also wear beast head hats. Besides using roe heads, they also use the fur of Mongolian dog and deer. The style is rugged and lifelike. Using real animal heads to make animal head hats could be considered a typical costume feature among northeast nomadic nationalities, which is closely related with their commercial activity.
   Occupying the highest position in general costume image, hats that well display the costume culture are paid particular attention. Some hats record the origin of their nationalities; some display the intelligence of their people; some concern the local weathers; and some signify the social position or commercial conditions of their wearers. Generally speaking, people exert great artistic talent on the design of hats. Whatever it displays, beauty is never neglected.
   A Yugur felt hat is like an inverted horn. The horn opening extents outward to form a circle of round hat brim decorated with two rings of black silk ribbons. The horn mouth forms the hat crown. The crown is decorated with all kinds of patterns and unique Ted tassels. It is said that this type of hat is to commemorate a female hero in Yugur minority's history. For the happiness of their people, she fought to the last blood against the devils. Red tassels in Yugur's hats signify her flesh blood.
   Yi girls who inhabit in the Red River area in Yunnan all have their cherished cockscomb hats. It is said that a loving couple fought against devils holding torches high, in order to seek for happiness and brightness and save country fellow from darkness. But unfortunately they tell into devil's bands. Later, the girl escaped cleverly with the help of an old man. The old man taught her to make a cock to crow ill order to call the sun out. The devils were then drive away. The girl saved her boyfriend and their country fellow also saw the brightness. In order to show their gratitude for the cock that saved their life, Yi people started to make cockscomb and put them on girls' heads because they believe that cock could bring luckiness, brightness, safety and happiness to the world. Besides Yi minority, Hani minority and Bai Minority girls in Yunnan also like to wear cockscombs of similar shapes and styles.
   There is a legend about kirgiz' hats. In ancient time, there was a brave and sagacious king. He realized that in tile battle, their national army troops were disorderly and unsystematic and hardly to be recognized because of their inconsistent clothes and hats. So he summoned all departments and ordered them to design a kind of unified hat for soldiers within 40 days. This hat should look like a shining star, a colorful flower, an ice peak covered with snow and a mountain slope covered with thick grass. It should be able to shield rain, snow, wind and sand. 39 days passed, nobody could design a kind of hat that satisfied both tile king and the people. On the 40th day, the beautiful daughter of a royal consultant designed a decorative white felt hat. The king was very satisfied and ordered both his army and people to wear this kind of bat which since then has been handed down for generations until now. This kind of hat is made of wool felt and in the shape of coiled eaves with either flat crown or spire crown of four ridges. There is a vent on both sides of the hat brim, which divide the hat brim into front and back part. if all brims are rolled to the top, the hat could shield snow and rain. If only the front brim is let down, the hat could shade the sunshine. And if both front and back brims are let down, the hat could shield wind and sand. Kirgizs consider this kind of hat as sacred hats. They hang them in high places or places not easily to be accessed when not wearing them. One could not throw or trample the hats or make joke on them, which were considered to be ill omened.
    Mongolian noble women in ancient time wore a kind of high and big hat crown, and later these hats were not limited to noble Women anymore. In festive days or big celebrations, women from ordinary families also wore this kind of hat. The hat crown is enclosed with birch skin, 30-50cm high and quadrangle shape at the top. The hat is covered with colorful silk and decorated with bead pieces, amber, peacock feathers or blackcock feathers etc. Any other adornments on the hat could be added or deleted at will, but feathers could not be omitted. Besides, girls also like to wrap a scarf around head, usually using cloth or silk of more than one meter long. The wrapping ways are different in different areas and for people of different ages.
   Those nationalities that believe in Islam and Orthodox Church attach great importance to hats. Indeed they wear hats everyday, because according to tile doctrine walking outside without wearing hats is profane to the heaven and disrespectful to the older members of the family. The Hui minority people mainly wear white cloth brimless little round hats. Together with black cloth hats, these two types of hats are considered to be "chapel hats"-hats that they wear when going chapels. Because there are different sects of the religion, there are hats in the shape of pentagon, hexagon and octagon and even there is a kind of hard helmet hat. Veils and scarves of women also differ in different sects of religion, area and age. Thus we could see that costumes are related with culture. Especially head costumes are always directly related with religious beliefs.                                                                                                                                                                                        Uygur in Xinjiang Autonomous Region mostly believe in Islam. More common than Hui Minority, Uygur, no matter what ages and sexes, almost all wear hats. Looking very beautiful, Uygur's little hats are decorated with delicate patterns and in big varieties. Besides, there are many rules on how to wear the hats. According to the different area, sex, age and occasion, they would wear different types of patterned hats. We could say that Uygur's patterned hats are as famous as their song and dance. Hats are not only their daily articles, but also a kind of traditional handicraft. There are many types of patterned hats and all patterns are beautifully designed, Some are simple but elegant with white flowers in dark backgrounds. Some are complicated and fancy with patterns of little birds intertwining with flowers. Some have several rings of little flowers around hats and the most fancy ones are decorated with flower patterns made by gold, silver threads, beads and tassels.

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